ON THE TRAIL OF THE TEMPLARS IN SARDINIA

1 SAN GAVINO DI PORTO TORRES

It is under Gonario that the Romanesque basilica of San Gavino is upgraded. It is built on the ancient martyrion of Gavino, Proto and Gianuario, killed for having refused their Christian faith in 303 AD under Diocletian.

You can visit the three Roman tombs in the crypt of the Basilica (pictured above) that was dug up in 1614 to locate the exact place of the martyrion.

2 SANTA MARIA DI CORTE – SINDIA

The Templars built two big monasteries affiliated to the Abbot of Citeaux in Burgundy (France) – one in Sindia and the other one in Uri.

You can clearly see the foundations of the ancient monastery next to the only part that was spared by destruction, i.e. the abbot of Antica Abbazia di Nostra Signora di Corte.

3 SANTA MARIA DI PAULIS – URI

White walls opening onto green fields and blue skies. That’s what you’ll find when looking for the abbot of Santa Maria di Uri, also known as Abbazia di Nostra Signora di Paulis. A bit ghostly perhaps but terribly moody.

4 SANTA MARIA DI TERGU

Imagine a huge fire, so raging as to destroy and burn to ashes the whole monastery at the beginning of the XXII century.

The Templars rebuilt Santa Maria di Tergu and expanded it by making it the biggest Benedectine monastery in Sardinia. In fact, it was affiliated to the abbot of Montecassino – one of the world’s most renowned abbots, founded by Saint Benedict in 529 AD on a hill about 130 km south of Rome.

Still visible today along the arches of the facade of the church – dedicated to the Madonna of Jericum – are flowering and dry roses, explicit reference to the cult of the life through water. In fact, the rose of Jericum (Anastatica Hierochuntica), which looks like a dead dry plant, can come back to life and produce flowers in a matter of hours after receiving water.

The rose of Jericum only grows in the desert of Negeb but knights coming back from the crusades used to bring some of these flowers back with them as a symbol of resurrection.

Before leaving, have a good look at the transept, where you can observe carved in stone both the Ark of the Covenant and the Solomon knot – similar to the Bowen knot but tilted to look like a cross.

5 SAN MICHELE – ALGHERO

You can find a clue confirming the influence of the Order of the Temple in Alghero’s San Michele church. The croce patente that you see over the main entrance is the cross with growing arms that was used by the Templars. Not very subtle.

6 SANTA MARIA DE S’ISPIDALE – ROMANA

If you read the Cabreo paper compiled by the Order of Malta at the beginning of the XVII century, you’ll find that this church and adjacent buildings belonged to the Templars’ properties. It was part of the commandry of San Leonardo de Siete Fuentes, your next stop.

7 SAN LEONARDO DE SIETE FUENTES

To reach this place you’ll walk in one of the most peaceful parks in West Sardinia, among large evergreen trees, a lake and seven fountains, each one meant to purify your soul from one of the capital sins.

It was the perfect place for pilgrims and knights coming back from the Holy Land who needed medical attention in this church and hospital – the biggest of this kind at that time.

After 1312 it was assigned to the Order of the Knights of Malta and you can still see the big white cross of the Order on the gate next to the church’s main entrance.

You can still enjoy the regenerative peace and the great-tasting fresh water from the seven fountains.

8 SAN PANCRAZIO – SEDINI

If you travel to Sedini, about 15 km from Castelsardo, you’ll see what appears to be an odd church. Located at the centre of a virtual cross uniting all Templar properties in the area, the fortress was adapted during the XVI century into the country church of Saint Pancras.

The absence of an apse – the rounded shape of the wall behind the altar – windows like a fortress and the presence of a fireplace on the inside are proofs that this place was originally a grangia, a castle of the Templars.

9 BASILICA DI SACCARGIA

The basilica was completed by Gonario’s parents who let it build over the ruins of an ancient monastery. Under Gonario – and with the financial support of the Templars – it was later upgraded and extended.

If you go there you’ll find an impressive construction of white and black stones as was typical for the Pisan Romanesque style.

If you’re into paintings, go have a look behind the altar. The central apse had been decorated by an unknown Italian artist at the end of the XII century. It is the only Romanesque mural in a perfect state of preservation in Sardinia.

THE END OF THE TEMPLARS

After the Christians definitely lost Jerusalem in 1187 AD to Salah ad-Din – sultan of Egypt, Siria, Yemen and Hijaz – the Templars continued their work as land administrators and bankers.

Only two centuries after their foundation, they became so rich and powerful to be envied by all other Orders. Even the Pope himself feared their influence. Together with the king of France Philip IV – highly indebted to them – Pope Clemens V organized a coordinated raid of all Templar monasteries in 1312 and the dissolution of the Order.

The Templars who survived the raid searched refuge in Scotland, Spain and Portugal and anywhere local kings applied mild punishments. Their possessions were either assigned to other Orders or absorbed into the state’s patrimony, as happened in France.

MYSTERY

Did you know that Christopher Columbus sailed away on three caravels sporting the Templar’s red cross on white sails?

Did the king of France really ensure the complete suppression of an order that was thought of having into its custody the Sacred Graal?

While it’s nearly impossible for you to gain knowledge of the truth, by touring North-West Sardinia you might feel their spirit lingering among solitary country churches and ruined monasteries.